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  3. Fleck 5600 - Still Stuck after Rebuild

I have purchased parts for my fleck 5600 system before and I am again having trouble.

The timer still gets STUCK.

I have rebuilt it ( new Pistons and Seals Kit ) twice and now am not sure what to do. Unit is from 2002. Please call me.

** After talking to you I think it is just the Timer Motor. They can get "weak" and not be able to drive through the regeneration cycle.

And the motors used by Fleck from around 2000 - 2003 all had plastic drive gears that would not hold up well under pressure ( they begin to "wobble" and jump off the Idler Gear they "drive" ).

So, the next most likely step would be to REPLACE the Timer Motor ( available in 120 volt or 24 volt versions ).
SEE: MOTOR - TIME FLECK 120 V 60 Hz 1/30 RPM 18743-1 ( REPLACES 13400, B13400 & 13944 ) 
or MOTOR - TIMER FLECK 24 V ( REPLACES 13494 ) 19659-1

And here is a LINK to the Video showing how easy it is to change - see Replacing the Timer Motor Video

* NOTE: Check for Cracks where the 2 screws hold the metal plate to the plastic housing.

5600 Screw holes Cracked for motor mounting plate

***** Other Possible Causes of the Valve Sticking or being Stiff

** Some water is really "rough" ( high in minerals and iron ), and will wear out ( and create build up ) the Pistons and Seals every couple of years. And they would need to be replaced more often than "average" (which is in the 5 - 10 year range ).

** If the pistons and seal are new ( or almost new ) and the Valve is still stiff to turn, then you want to check two things.

1 ) Front Knob, as it can "split" where it attaches to the main gear shaft and cause drag when cycling around. You must remove the label to get to the screw in the center. Remove and inspect.

2 ) Check the plastic "housing" where the Main Shaft Gear passes through the body. This area holds two small ball bearings that rest on springs, and sometimes the plastic cracks in this area. The result is "binding" under the pressure of regeneration cycling. Replacing the Housing ( transferring all parts from your old one to the new one ), or you can replace the Power Head ( cost more, but a lot easier ). SEE: GEAR - MAIN GEAR AND SHAFT FOR 5600 
and HOUSING W/ PIN 5600 13162010 FL14448-000

CUSTOMER INPUT that might help some BINDING issues ( when no visible damage is observed after taking valve apart and inspecting all the plastic parts ):
Just for your information, in case some one else experiences this. After tearing this unit apart a couple of times, and not seeing any damage, and it still not cycling properly and hanging up. I noticed that on the Main Gear and Shaft, pn # 13170, there was a powder residue, where it seemed to have been rubbing against the housing bore. I took some silicon grease and lubricated the shaft. Now for the past month and a half or more I have not had the unit stop, or lose time again.
* Below shows Main Gear "hole" where housing has CRACKED.
These area has two springs and two ball bearings that allow smooth rotation of the Main Gear ( unless housing is damaged ).

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