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Causes of suction failure in order of importance and frequency:

1 ) Gasket under Nozzle Venturi is worn, cracked, or "dried out".

2 ) Seal Kit is failing at some critical area, and not sealing.
Note: Standard Size, 7129716 or a few models use Large Size Kit, 7185487

3 ) Rotor Disc is no longer smooth and even, resulting in lack of seal during critical valve functions.
Note: Two sizes, Standard Rotor, 7199232 and Larger , 7185500

So, the best recommendation is to replace all 3 parts (SEE: SEAL KIT SEARS, GE, NORTH STAR 7129716, 7092163, WS35X10005),unless you feel very confident of the condition of one or more of the parts and therefore don't need replacing ( yet ).

Suction FAILURE Can Be Related To:
1 ) Gasket under Venturi ( sometimes the Venturi too ).
2 ) Seal Kit o-rings ( any leakage internally effects suction )
3 ) Rotor Disc ( any scratches or uneven wear effects suction )
4 ) Drain flow ( blockage of Drain Flow Plug or Drain hose effects suction... or Drain hose running UP HILL )
5 ) Bottom Flow Plug in the Nozzle Venturi Assembly, if closing up ( should be 0.3" I.D. hole )
6 ) Poor seal of the Nozzle Venturi Assembly to the Valve body. See:O-RING PAIR 7170319)

**** Anything else would be a clogged screen ( two in Nozzle Venturi and one at bottom of Brine Float Assembly )

*** And for older units, if you have been using Pellet Salt for many years, it could be clogging the bottom of your brine well, and limiting flow at the bottom of the salt tank. Pellet salt leaves a hard undissolvable mush of 1 - 3 inches per year of normal use. And eventually will clog the flow through the brine well at the bottom of the salt tank area. Removing the old salt ( no easy way.. it's a hard job ), and starting over with 80 - 120 lbs. of new salt and 3 - 4 gallons of water, may be the solution if you have been using Pellets for years, and have never removed the "old" salt that builds up.

NOTE: If you do have suction ( water is sucked out during the Brine Rinse cycle ), but water level rises too high after normal "Refill" , the problem could be a CRACK in the Resin Tank ..... usually near the bottom of the resin tank, under the old salt.
First check that the water is not coming from the Valve, by disconnecting the Ferrule Nut / Brine tubing at the Nozzle Venturi Assembly. When in normal service, there should be no water coming out this port / connection.
If it's dripping constantly, the Seal KIT or Rotor Disc ( or both ) need replacing.
But again, if no water leaking here, and you do have suction during Brine Rinse, but you still have way too much water ( up to over flow level ) in the salt area, then you need to make sure the tank is not crack at the bottom ( remove old salt and all water, to get a good look at bottom of the Resin tank ).

Check to see if the Valve is creating the required Suction.

Remove the Brine fitting at the Valve ( ferrule nut on Venturi Housing ) and manually advance to the Brine Rinse cycle ( BR on Cam ).
At this point -
You should have suction that you can hear and feel at the brine connection of the Valve ( at Venturi Nozzle Housing / Assembly ).
If you do not,
there is a problem with the Valve (gasket, main seals, or a drain flow restriction ).

If you do have suction,
then the problem is Not with the Valve,
but has something to do with either the Brine tubing, connections, or the Brine Pick Up tube in the salt tank ( is that new or old ? As it's possible for the Brine Pick Up to be blocking flow out due to pre-mature "air check".. rare, but something to consider if Valve is working and connections are all good ).

** In Summary, regarding the problems we see most often,

If the problem is FILLING when there should be SUCTION,
There are really only 3 common causes for the problem.
In order of most common to least common,

1 ) Seals ( kit ) and / or Rotor disc ( badly worn, damaged, or scratched ).

2 ) Nozzle Venturi assembly ( Bad Gasket , screen clogged, or flow plug clogged )

3 ) Drain obstruction ( partial clog or back pressure in drain pipe, especially common in drains that run "uphill" )