Autotrol 155 Rebuilding
Rebuilding the Autotrol 155 ( 1550-TC ) Valve Body | ||
The expected life span of the Autotrol softener control valve is 20 - 30 years with a few minor repairs along the way. The Flapper Valve Discs in the valve body generally need replacement after 15 - 20 years. However, if your system is on a chlorinated water source, the Flapper Valves ( part # 155A152 ) will need replacement much sooner ( 5 - 10 years is common ). On chlorinated water supplies it is also necessary to replace the Flow Control Ball ( part # 4F ) which sits inside the Backwash Plug on the right rear of your valve. In severe cases it made be necessary to replace the injector ( # 28F-BB ) also. There is no need to change other parts or o-rings unless you have a leak. The flapper valve discs can be replaced by removing the 11 screws holding the top plate on ( you need to remove the cam and the timer housing first ). The flat springs pop out of the top of the valve discs. A pair of needle noses pliers helps with removing the springs ( and popping them back in place ), and also with pulling the valves out of the valve body. It is a fairly simple procedure. PLEASE check carefully that the area where the valve disc "seat" is 100% clean, and be sure to Install the Discs into the Valve Body, and THEN lower the Top Plate on top. The Valve Discs must all be INSTALLED and SEATED first, for best possible results ( less chance of problems or leaks ). | ||
Autotrol 155 Valve Body Rebuild Kit: | ||
Includes: | ||
440 Timer Repairs | ||
An obvious problem that can occur is for the timer motor to fail. The motors turn at 1 rpm, so it is quite easy to tell if it is turning. A more common problem is for one or more of the drive gears to strip. Removing the Tripper Arm screw, the Skipper Wheel screw and the three cover plate screws will gain you complete access to all components for careful examination. It is easier to work on your timer housing is you remove it from the valve body ( pull out "flag locking pin, slide power cord out of it's retaining slot, unscrew Cam Shaft Bearing at rear of Cam Shaft, and then pull housing straight up ) | ||
Common Gears that Fail | ||
Also the "Out Put Connector" # 21E ( 1031496 ) which attaches to and drives the Cam Shaft can crack or break. On rare occasions the Camshaft # 21F-3 ( 1031950 )will break at one end. Also, rare is a cracked Skipper Wheel # 14F-6 ( 1031740 ). Close examination of both sides of the Skipper Wheel is required to detect this failure. | ||