Technetic 1000, Plus, 1100i replacement Valve Recommendation
Customer Question:
Hi I have an Technetic 1100 it needs to be replaced can you tell what one would be the best to replace it with. Thanks
The Valve that is closest to your Technetics is the Autotrol 268 / 762 Logix ,
as it will use the same 1265 By Pass used on later model Technetic ( Plus Series ),
or allow you to connect the large Adapter Nuts directly to the rear of the Valve.
The next best choice is the Autotrol 255 / 760 Logix as it has the same "Air Check" for the Brine tank connection.
It would REQUIRE a New By Pass, 256 for the 255 Valve. And would still allow the use of your old Large Adapter Nuts.
New Gaskets ( pn AP54F ) would be required if using your old Adapters.
See our Valve Replacement Guide for more details, and the steps involved.
*** Customer Asks,
I have a question of should I purchase the 268 or the 255.
* It's really up to you.
** Differences are, in simplest terms:
plus Elbow ( if you don't already have one ),
* You should already have the standard 3/8" brine tubing.
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CUSTOMER WRITES:
I currently have a technetic 1000 valve on my water softener and it needs to be replaced. I read on your web site that either a Autotrol 268/762 Logix or Autotrol 255/760 Logix would work. I also realize I need a new bypass valve as the 1010 currently is leaking. I have a new 1265 bypass which I believe could be used with the Autotrol 268.
* YES, I would have to purchase a 256 bypass for the Autotrol 255. * Correct.. Different sized By Pass, My question is which of these choices would be the best bet? ** If you switch to 268, you may also need to ADD Brine Pick Up Tube with AIR CHECK to the brine tank. ** The 255 has the Air Check chamber on the Valve Body already ( similar to Technetic 1000 Valve Body ). Reference; and or Also, your site mentioned that these metered valves were more complicated and really not needed as a mechanical timer type valve would be just as good, more reliable, and cheaper in price. Could you recommend any valves of that type? * YES.. you would need a unique By Pass or YOKE, and your Water Lines ( inlet and outlet ) would be REVERSED of your current Valve connections. AND again, these valves would require you have an AIR CHECK in the Brine tank. see: We have the same water usage every day of the year so a metered valve isn't really necessary. Thanks. ** Then you can use, 255 / 740 Logix Valve ( and 256 By Pass ) OR Hankscraft 12 Day softener valve ( plus Yoke or By Pass plus Air Check Brine Pick Up )
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* Also, notes about the By passes used on the Technetic valves.
Hi I have an Technetic 1100 it needs to be replaced can you tell what one would be the best to replace it with. Thanks
The Valve that is closest to your Technetics is the Autotrol 268 / 762 Logix ,
as it will use the same 1265 By Pass used on later model Technetic ( Plus Series ),
or allow you to connect the large Adapter Nuts directly to the rear of the Valve.
The next best choice is the Autotrol 255 / 760 Logix as it has the same "Air Check" for the Brine tank connection.
It would REQUIRE a New By Pass, 256 for the 255 Valve. And would still allow the use of your old Large Adapter Nuts.
New Gaskets ( pn AP54F ) would be required if using your old Adapters.
See our Valve Replacement Guide for more details, and the steps involved.
*** Customer Asks,
I have a question of should I purchase the 268 or the 255.
* It's really up to you.
Is the 268 a better valve and is it also a good replacement for the technetic?
* 255 and 268 are both good valves. I would not say one was better than the other.
I know that the 255 was the original replacement suggested so how does it compare to the 268?
* 255 and 268 are both good valves. I would not say one was better than the other.
I know that the 255 was the original replacement suggested so how does it compare to the 268?
** Differences are, in simplest terms:
1 ) 268 has threaded valve body and 255 does not ( thus requires By Pass or Piping Boss ).
2 ) 255 has Air Check on the Valve and the 268 does not;
( thus requires you have or purchase a new Brine Pick Up tube with Air Check ).
******
For longer and detailed COMPARISON - See / Read, the following:
2 ) 255 has Air Check on the Valve and the 268 does not;
( thus requires you have or purchase a new Brine Pick Up tube with Air Check ).
******
For longer and detailed COMPARISON - See / Read, the following:
** Some of the differences can be noted in their descriptions,
268,
255,
The Valve that is closest to your Technetics is the Autotrol 268 / 762 Logix ,
as it will use the same 1265 By Pass used on later model Technetic ( Plus Series ),
or allow you to connect the large Adapter Nuts directly to the rear of the Valve.
The next best choice isthe Autotrol 255 / 760 Logix as it has the same "Air Check" for the Brine tank connection.
It would REQUIRED a New By Pass, 256 for the 255 Valve. And would still allow the use of your old Large Adapter Nuts.
New Gaskets ( pn AP54F ) would be required if using your old Adapters.
See our Valve Replacement Guide for more details, and the steps involved.
as it will use the same 1265 By Pass used on later model Technetic ( Plus Series ),
or allow you to connect the large Adapter Nuts directly to the rear of the Valve.
The next best choice isthe Autotrol 255 / 760 Logix as it has the same "Air Check" for the Brine tank connection.
It would REQUIRED a New By Pass, 256 for the 255 Valve. And would still allow the use of your old Large Adapter Nuts.
New Gaskets ( pn AP54F ) would be required if using your old Adapters.
See our Valve Replacement Guide for more details, and the steps involved.
8) Attach By Pass or Piping Yoke.
On Fleck valves, it is held in place by two metal clips and two screws.
It will be a little bit "loose", but it's the o-rings that are creating the "seal" so don't be concerned about this.
For Autotrol 255 valves you will have three o-rings and four small bolts with nuts to complete the attachment.
The Autotrol 255 will also have a clear "air check" assembly to mount on the valve.
Autotrol 268 and Erie valves have large nuts with Gaskets that connects to the rear of the Valve.
On Fleck valves, it is held in place by two metal clips and two screws.
It will be a little bit "loose", but it's the o-rings that are creating the "seal" so don't be concerned about this.
For Autotrol 255 valves you will have three o-rings and four small bolts with nuts to complete the attachment.
The Autotrol 255 will also have a clear "air check" assembly to mount on the valve.
Autotrol 268 and Erie valves have large nuts with Gaskets that connects to the rear of the Valve.
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Also,
The 268 valve would REQUIRE an Air Check Pick Up in the Salt tank, and the 255 uses the Air Check on the Valve ( similar to Technetics 1000 ).
That and the way they Connect to the water lines ( threaded valve body of the 268, or requiring by pass or piping boss, of the 255 Valve Body ).
As mentioned in STEP 9 c of the Replacement Guide,
c. Brine line from salt tank. Fitting is for standard 3/8" brine line.
Your brine pickup tube needs have an "air check" at the bottom if installing a Fleck
or any valve except the Autotrol 255 ( the 255 is the only valve that uses an "air check" on the Valve instead of at the bottom of the Salt Tank
( NOTE: Be sure to use Teflon Tape or similar product ( like our Lock Leak ) on the male Threads of the Air Check ( where the female fitting must thread on to ).
It is NECESSARY, or it will develop an "air" leak.).
If you only have a "screen" with out a air check "ball" then you will need to order a new brine pick up tube ( part # FP60002 )
to prevent air being sucked into the resin tank during regeneration
( this wouldonly happen if you were switching from the Autotrol 155, 255, or old brass body Rainsoft
to a Fleck Valve or Autotrol 268, which require the Air Check in the salt tank ).
Your brine pickup tube needs have an "air check" at the bottom if installing a Fleck
or any valve except the Autotrol 255 ( the 255 is the only valve that uses an "air check" on the Valve instead of at the bottom of the Salt Tank
( NOTE: Be sure to use Teflon Tape or similar product ( like our Lock Leak ) on the male Threads of the Air Check ( where the female fitting must thread on to ).
It is NECESSARY, or it will develop an "air" leak.).
If you only have a "screen" with out a air check "ball" then you will need to order a new brine pick up tube ( part # FP60002 )
to prevent air being sucked into the resin tank during regeneration
( this wouldonly happen if you were switching from the Autotrol 155, 255, or old brass body Rainsoft
to a Fleck Valve or Autotrol 268, which require the Air Check in the salt tank ).
** This one,
or
This one, that includes a float shut off feature,
This one, that includes a float shut off feature,
And differences in the Distributor Heights, as reference in Step 5 of the Replacement Guide,
5) Construct a new distributor tube using "lower basket" supplied by us ( MD1236 )
and a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe ( schedule 40 or 160 will work ).
Use PVC cement. Allow 5 minutes to "dry" before inserting into your resin tank.
You will need the new tube to be equal to the top of the resin tank ( not more than 1/4" above ),
if installing the Fleck 5600 or Autotrol Performa 263 or 268 valves.
If you are installing an Autotrol 255 valve, then the height should be 1/2 - 3/4" above the top of the tank.
and a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe ( schedule 40 or 160 will work ).
Use PVC cement. Allow 5 minutes to "dry" before inserting into your resin tank.
You will need the new tube to be equal to the top of the resin tank ( not more than 1/4" above ),
if installing the Fleck 5600 or Autotrol Performa 263 or 268 valves.
If you are installing an Autotrol 255 valve, then the height should be 1/2 - 3/4" above the top of the tank.
The older style By Pass ( 1010 ) is obsolete, and no longer available from any known source ( has not been for several years ).
Newer models use the 1265 By Pass ( large threaded Nut connection to valve body ),
This only works as replacement of exact same design.
Spacing does not match older Valve Bodies.
see:
By Pass 1265 for Performa and newer Technetic Valves
Remove By Pass, and then you can screw the Adapter Nuts directly to the Threads on the Valve Body ( all Technetics, Autotrol 168 and Performa 268 Valves ).
You will find / see these threads on the actual Valve Body, once you remove the defective By Pass.
You can continue to use your Technetic control head, only now without having the manufacturer's By Pass valve.
Below is photo of the Obsolete 1010 By Pass
