Salt Tank ( Brine Tank ) installation guide
Connecting New Brine Tank to 3/8" Tubing
Customer Writes:
I am not sure how to feed the supplied suction/fill line into the brine tank. The lower 90 degree fitting on the side just spins and doesn’t appear to be connected to anything inside the float assembly.
I am not sure how to feed the supplied suction/fill line into the brine tank. The lower 90 degree fitting on the side just spins and doesn’t appear to be connected to anything inside the float assembly.
** I'm thinking you are referring to the overflow elbow.
And nothing needs to be connected to that, but you can attach 1/2" I.D. hose to a floor drain, as any "overflow" from the salt tank would come out this opening. NOTE: You should NEVER attach this to your water softener Drain Hose. They must never be "connected" ( run separate drain hoses, if you choose to connect a hose to the overflow elbow... most people do NOT connect or run a hose from this elbow ).
see:
And nothing needs to be connected to that, but you can attach 1/2" I.D. hose to a floor drain, as any "overflow" from the salt tank would come out this opening. NOTE: You should NEVER attach this to your water softener Drain Hose. They must never be "connected" ( run separate drain hoses, if you choose to connect a hose to the overflow elbow... most people do NOT connect or run a hose from this elbow ).
see:
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Customer Writes:
Also I can’t get the float tube (4 inch diameter tube) assembly out now to look at the inside – the 90 degree fitting is preventing it from being unattached from the side of the tank. Is this loose fitting a problem? Where does the hose go? In the tank I’m replacing, the hose goes in the top open hole. I pushed the hose into that hole and while it will go to the bottom of the float assembly tube, I don’t think this is correct. Any instructions you can give me to resolve this would be very helpful!
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The 3/8" tubing connects ( through small hole in side wall of Brine Tank ) to the compression elbow at the top of the Brine Pick Up assembly ( that is in the 4" brine well ).
Remove the "cap" so you can "see" the connection of the Brine Pick Up Assembly inside.
Remove the "cap" so you can "see" the connection of the Brine Pick Up Assembly inside.
It should look like this inside,
Here is a Youtube video by another company that may help you understand Brine Tank assembly,
see:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VA_lU2vAdcM
** Also this LONGER video "explains" Brine Tank Operation = https://youtu.be/0mJ73pROWJs
**** There are some brine tanks that use slightly different Brine Float Assemblies - - - -
Brine Safety Float Assembly 30" Brine Well Clack 474
or
Brine Safety Shut Off Valve 3/8" 2310 ( 60014 )
If you have a Sears Kenmore or GE SmartWater type system, the complete Brine Valve Assembly replacement would be this one, Brine Valve Assembly - 7116488 new 7310197
***
And note that this part is usually not the source of any Over Flow problems with the salt tank.
see other REASONS for
Brine Tank Overflow
NOTE: If you have an "air" in your water lines problem, and your salt tank is over FULL of water, then you may simply have an "air leak" between the Valve and the Brine Pick Up Assembly. The valve is sucking air the whole Brine Rinse cycle, and then adding ( Refill cycle ) for the next regeneration. You will also have hard water, since your resin are not getting "recharged" by the salt water.
