1) Shut off water
---- Relieve remaining pressure on the Valve / Tank by manually advancing the control valve to "Backwash" cycle, and remaining water pressure will go out the Drain Hose in less than 10 seconds.
2) Disconnect old valve
a. Power cord
b. Brine tubing to salt tank
c. Drain hose
d. In & Out water lines
3) Unscrew old valve ( may require two people ).
4) Remove old distributor tube from the resin tank.
( NOTE the height of the tube relative to the top of the resin tank. You may
be able to use this as a guide when constructing the new distributor
5) Construct a new distributor tube using "lower basket" supplied by us ( MD1236 )
and a piece of 3/4" PVC
pipe ( schedule 40 or
160 ( SDR ) will work ).
The distributor needs to be touching the Bottom of the Tank.
Use PVC cement to "glue" the pipe to the bottom distributor.
Allow 10 minutes to "dry" before inserting into your resin tank.
You will need the new tube to be equal to the top of the resin tank ( not more than 1/2" above
), if installing the Hankscraft, Fleck 5600, or Autotrol Performa 263 or 268 valves.
* If you are installing an
Autotrol 255 valve, then the height should be 1/2 - 3/4" above the top
of the tank.
You should "round" or "smooth" the top edges of the new PVC pipe with sand paper so that insertion into the valve does not damage the distributor o-ring in the valve body. And a little silicone lubricant on the end will help the pipe slide into new valve o-ring.
Put new distributor tube into resin tank ( If there are RESIN in the tank, then use a water hose or air to help "jet" the pipe to the bottom of the tank ).
6) Snap and twist in place the "upper distributor basket" to the under side of the new
valve ( supplied with your new valve ).
7) Screw new valve on to resin tank.
8) Attach By Pass or Piping Yoke.
On Hankscraft HS, HD or Fleck valves, it is held in place by two metal clips and two screws. It will be a little bit "loose", but it's the o-rings that are creating the "seal" so don't be concerned about this.
For Autotrol 255 valves you will have three o-rings and four small bolts with nuts to complete the attachment.
The Autotrol 255 will also have a clear "air check" assembly to mount on the valve.
Autotrol 268 and Erie valves have large nuts with Gaskets that connects to the rear of the Valve.
a. Water lines. NOTE the IN and OUT may be different than your old valve. ( Fleck & Hankscraft are standard but Autotrol uses opposite connections ).
Fleck, Hankscraft, and most other brands, *** Water comes IN on the Right ( if you are standing IN FRONT of the Valve .. front facing you ).
And there should be an "arrow" on the valve body where the adapter or meter meets / connects with the Valve Body.
Inlet side, is the same side the 1/2" Drain port is located.
Autotrol Valves have the INLET on the LEFT ( when standing in front of the Valve ). Autotrol is the only brand we are aware of that works that way.
b. Drain line. A drain fitting is included. The fitting connection is standard 1/2" on most valves .
You can use 1/2" I.D. hose or tubing ( purchased separately ), or "hard plumb" with 1/2" PVC or CPVC for the drain water.
c. Brine line from salt tank. Fitting is for standard 3/8" brine line.
Your brine pickup tube needs have an "air check" at the bottom if installing a Fleck or Hankscraft,
or any valve except the Autotrol 255 ( the 255 is the only valve that uses an "air check" on the Valve instead of at the bottom of the Salt Tank
( NOTE: Be sure to use Teflon Tape or similar product ( like our Lock Leak ) on the male Threads of the Air Check ( where the female fitting must thread on to ). It is NECESSARY, or it will develop an "air" leak.).
If you only have a "screen" with out a air check "ball" then you will need to order a new brine pick up tube ( part # FP60002 ) to prevent air being sucked into the resin tank during regeneration ( this would only happen if you were switching from the Autotrol 155, 255, or old brass body Rainsoft to a Fleck Valve or Autotrol 268, which require the Air Check in the salt tank ).
d. Plug in power cord.
10. Turn water on.
11. Start up valve:
a. Set time of day to current time of day. Instructions are listed on front of
control and in the owners/service manual supplied with your new valve.
b. Set program wheel to desired regeneration interval. You can consult the manual or email us if you have questions. For
Fleck metered systems, we have helpful hints
c. Turn front control to the manual regeneration position. The regeneration cycle last approximately 90 minutes.
12. If your old resins have not be recharged or regenerated for more than 2 weeks, it could be beneficial to add 1 cup of bleach to the water in the salt tank. This one time treatment will clean and disinfect the resin bed. Adding 1/2 cup of bleach each time you add salt is also a good idea if you are on "well" water.
You should have about 3 - 4 gallons of water in your salt tank to start.
Also, make sure you have salt too! We recommend starting with
than 80 lbs.
13. After the system has finished regenerating, you can run the hot water in the bath tub until cold ( usually 10 - 15 minutes ). This will "turn over" the water in the tank with conditioned water.
14. If the resin bed has not been charged for a long time, a second regeneration cycle may be needed to restore conditioned water to the home.
15. Automatic regeneration will now occur at 2 a.m. at night as needed ( or as set on the program wheel or control board of Digital Valves ). Try to keep the salt level above the water level in the salt tank ( normal water levels with salt included is 6 -12 inches ).