Air in water lines after Softener Regenerates
If you notice AIR in the water lines the morning after your softener has regenerated, AND the brine water level is normal ( meaning the valve has been sucking the water out and refilling properly ), then the problem is caused by the "air check" failing to close ( check ). For most systems this "air check" is in the salt tank at the bottom of the Brine Pick Up Assembly. Often this is simply a ball that floats inside a cylinder ( that is slotted ). Some use a rod and plunger that seals off the flow ( air ) once the water level reaches the bottom ( as it does normally in the Brine Rinse cycle ).
Why Air Check Is Necessary.
Cleaning the Air Check is easy.
Just remove from brine tank ( or the softener Valve if Autotrol 155 or 255 model ),
and soak in bleach for 2 - 3 minutes, and then rinse with water for 30 seconds, and re-install.
That should dissolve any "build up" around the air check "ball" or "seat" that you can't "get to".
Sometimes it is just salt crystals ( which can form when a system is not used often ).
SEE Also >Air Check Autotrol Old 36F or Newer Style - How to Tell - How to Clean
Why Air Check Is Necessary.
Brine suction / Rinse cycle last 50 minutes.
It takes only 20 minutes to suck out all the salt water.
Valve continues to create suction, while slowly "rinsing" the salt out of the resin tank.
Air Check is what prevents air from getting sucked into the softener's resin tank.
If you get AIR, yours is NOT "checking".
* On Autotrol Valves, this can be very noisy either during the Brine Rinse cycle, or near the end of regeneration ( Purge Rinse and Brine Refill ), due to the air in the tank / valve, and the Flapper Valve Discs "flapping" as the air passes through the valve body.
* On Autotrol Valves, this can be very noisy either during the Brine Rinse cycle, or near the end of regeneration ( Purge Rinse and Brine Refill ), due to the air in the tank / valve, and the Flapper Valve Discs "flapping" as the air passes through the valve body.
You can try removing and cleaning up your Air check, or you can replace with new one.
Our PN FP60002 or BW4030-474 are two choices that work for many "brands".
For SEARS, NorthStar, GE Smartwater, Whirlpool types, the Brine Assembly is PN 7116488 or 7310197, also called WS15X10005 for GE models. *** NOTE: If you have this "air" in your water lines problem, and your salt tank is over FULL of water, then you simply have an "air leak" between the Valve and the Brine Pick Up Assembly. The valve is sucking air the whole Brine Rinse cycle, and then adding ( Refill cycle ) for the next regeneration. You will also have hard water, since your resin are not getting "recharged" by the salt water.
Our PN FP60002 or BW4030-474 are two choices that work for many "brands".
For SEARS, NorthStar, GE Smartwater, Whirlpool types, the Brine Assembly is PN 7116488 or 7310197, also called WS15X10005 for GE models. *** NOTE: If you have this "air" in your water lines problem, and your salt tank is over FULL of water, then you simply have an "air leak" between the Valve and the Brine Pick Up Assembly. The valve is sucking air the whole Brine Rinse cycle, and then adding ( Refill cycle ) for the next regeneration. You will also have hard water, since your resin are not getting "recharged" by the salt water.
Cleaning the Air Check is easy.
Just remove from brine tank ( or the softener Valve if Autotrol 155 or 255 model ),
and soak in bleach for 2 - 3 minutes, and then rinse with water for 30 seconds, and re-install.
That should dissolve any "build up" around the air check "ball" or "seat" that you can't "get to".
Sometimes it is just salt crystals ( which can form when a system is not used often ).
SEE Also >Air Check Autotrol Old 36F or Newer Style - How to Tell - How to Clean
