To Install:
Remove the head.
Check that you have a top distributor attached to the underside of your valve,
Reference:
Tilt the tank over slightly to remove some of the WATER in the resin tank.
* Or syphon 10 - 12 inches of water, it tilting the tank is not possible.
Note that your softening resin level is usually 16 - 18 inches below the top of the tank.
* If you are replacing "old" Tannin Resins, you'll want to remove those first.
They will all be on the top layer, and Black ( dull, not shiny ) in color.
Remove this top layer ( 4 - 8 inches typically )
until you detect your "regular" softening resins
( usually brown or orange but may be a shiny black color ).
Then with the center distributor pipe hole covered ( a sandwich bag works )
you ADD the Tannin Resins. ( Having a funnel would make the job easier ).
Then reinstall the valve head,
and run a complete regeneration.
Reference our "How To Replace Your Old Valve" Guide for valve removal steps / tips.
**** Life Expectancy - White "Tannin" Resin
*
I've seen the resin "fail" in 1 year ( high iron, high tannins, or a system allowed to run out of salt ),
And I've seen it last 8 - 10 years.
Average life ( before color starts showing up again ) is 3 - 5 years ( in my experience here in Florida ).
The life of the Tannin resins depends on the application.
The level of Tannins and amount of Iron in the water are the most critical factors.
The amount of salt being used per regeneration and the use of Citric Acid ( T Ban ) cleaner with the salt
will make a difference too.
If you don't regenerate Often Enough, or use a little extra salt ( when iron is present ), or run out of salt,
you will damage the Tannin Resins, and diminish their ability to remove the color from the water.
Reference Citric Acid cleaner,
