When do the resins in the softener tank need to be changed?
1. The average water softener will not need it's resins replaced in it's life
time ( 20 + years ).
2. Water softening resins need to be replaced if the unit has developed a
high level of bacteria that does not respond to a cleaning with chlorine. Odors
from units left in a not working mode with no water flowing through them for
months at a time can develop this problem. Also, units in direct sunlight (
Florida ) can develop a layer of algae that requires complete resin replacement.
3. An excessive amount of sand in resin tank, due to a well starting to collapse, can
necessitate resin replacement.
For more Info:
Check out the
Resin Replacement Guide
Can the softener cause pressure loss, if so what do I look for, and what do I need to fix it?
Yes, a softener can cause pressure loss in the home due to resistance from
the resin bed caused by one of the following.
1. On well water, this is usually due to fine sand coming from the well.
2. On softeners installed in the open sunlight ( mostly in Florida ), a layer of algae can grow and thick pieces of this growth clog the
lower distributor tube screen when they start peeling off the inside of the
3. On chlorinated water supplies, sand can get into the tank from new construction or work on
water lines in the area. All of these situations are rare.
4. The most common cause of pressure loss occurs on chlorinated water.
The resins can be damaged by high chlorine levels and turn to mush. This has the same effect as having fine sand at the bottom of the resin tank. Chlorine can DESTROY Resins in as little as 5 years ( I'm seeing 5 - 10 years average )
The solution for all of the above problems is to dump the resin tank, clean and rebed with new resins. One cubic foot of
softening resins is enough to properly fill the average residential softener. We can calculate the amount for you, if you provide
exact resin tank dimensions.
The second possible reason ( VERY RARE ) for pressure loss occurs something gets clogs or breaks in the control valves.
On Autotrol Valves, the flapper valve discs swell up when used on chlorinated water. This causes the holes in the valve to become block, resulting in pressure loss at high flow rates.
On Fleck Valves, the Main Piston can break off and get stuck ( always results in constant water flow coming out the drain hose ).
On Rotary Valves ( like Kenmore made by Ecowater, and the Erie Rotary Valve ), it is possible for the Rotor Disc to break off during regeneration, and again you would expect water to be constantly coming out the drain hose, if this was the problem.
99.5% of the time the pressure loss is the media ( resin ) in the Tank and not the Valve.
> # 1 FAQ = High Water in Brine Tank - Problem -Softener does not remove the water from my salt tank or overflow
> Links to Other Websites
> Distributor Failure in Bottom of Resin Tank
> How To Replace Media ( Carbon, Birm, Greensand, or Calcite ) in Filter Tank
> How and Why to use Acid Neutralizing Media Calcite and Corosex ( Magnesium Oxide )
> Low Pressure Through Softener On Chlorinated Water
> Low Pressure Through Softener On Well Water
> How a water softener actually works and why does it feel slimy
> Average Salt Amount Needed and Normal Water Level In Brine Tank
> Salt Usage In Water Softening
> No Salt Systems for Water Softening
> Dishwasher Glassware Etching Cause Explained
> Air in water lines after Softener Regenerates
> Trouble Shooting Guide for the Fleck 5600 and 5600 Econominder Valve
> STUCK Valve Fleck 5600 Rebuild Guide
> Clogged Injector in Iron Filter
> Common Water Problems
> ECO - Friendly Alternative to SALT Softeners
> How do you determine if you actually need a softener?
> How do you put a softener out of service without damaging it?
> How Long Until Water Feels Soft Again After Repair
> Hydrogen Sulfide levels affected by amount of water used and the ground water table
> Will a Water Softener remove the iron from my water?
> Iron Staining and my Water Softener seems to be working okay, Why is that?
> Odor - Sulfur (Hydrogen Sulfide) in your water
> I have a Water Softener, but I still have odor in my water.
Why is that?
> Orange Sand Coming Into House
> Refilling when it should Sucking Water out of Salt Tank ( Brine Rinse cycle ) Fleck Valve
> My Valve appears to be operating but the Salt is Not Going Down.
What could cause this problem?
> Salty Water Taste in the Morning
> Sears and GE Smartwater - Water Not Soft - Distributor Oring problem and solution
> High Water in Brine Tank - Problems and Solutions
> Sodium in the Water Softening
> What Brine ( Salt ) Setting Amount to Use?
> Will a Water Softener make my water safe to drink?
> Carbon replacement - How often should you replace the carbon in a whole house unit?
> Stains in Laundry - several possible causes
> Tools Kit 60135-2510 for Service 1500, 2500, 2510 Seals & Spacers
> Iron Filter, Greensand, MGS, Birm and Issues including Clogged Injector
> Looking for someone to Service My Water Softner ( Softener ) in my area.
> Adding Carbon to Resin in same Tank - Not Recommended
> 5600 - Manual Regenerate - Cycle Times
> Pump Pressure Low or Cycles OFF and ON ( Well Water )
> Brine Suction problem with Fleck 5600
> Brine Refill problem with Fleck 5600
> Relieving Pressure Fleck 5600 Valve
> Stinky - Rotten Egg - Odor
> Sodium Levels in Water when Softened
> Air Check inside Brine Tank can becomes Stuck or Water Logged
> Aerator Use and Cleaning Q & A
> Air Check - Ball seated or dropping early during the BRINE/SLOW RINSE portion on the 155 or 255 Series Valve
> Brine Valve Replacement in Salt tank ( with Float Shut Off )
> UV for Water Purification - Does it Work?
> Why Gravel is Not Needed in Residential Size Water Softener
> 5600 - difference between metered demand control and 12 day valve
> Pyrolox - How To Replace / Use in Filter Tank